Tools of the trade (or, What you need to create the magic)

Rings are only half of the equation when it comes to creating chainmaille products, the other thing that you need is the proper tools.  But what are those tools, and how do you know which tool is the right one for your particular situation?  By far the most important tool(s) in a chainmailler's arsenal (besides a strong back and the ability to swear like a sailor at times) are pliers.  Lots and lots of pliers...I have over a dozen pairs of pliers just for chainmaille.  Chain nose and bent nose and flat nose, oh my.  And each of these pliers has a time when they shine.  While I won't list particular brands or suppliers in this article (although I will give credit for images that I use), I feel that a quick overview of the uses of each variety of pliers is important.  Each type has a 'best used when' scenario, but ultimately it often comes down to personal preference.  And so, without further ado...  Welcome to the hardware store...

Image from www.wildaboutbeads.com

Some general notes on pliers selection.  If you are going to be using your pliers for chainmaille (and why would you be reading this if that's not your plan), you must make sure that they do NOT have teeth.  The 'working edge' of the pliers must be smooth, either by manufacture or filed down after you purchase them.  Teeth will scratch your rings and create a wonderful cheese-grater like feeling to your jewelry that will not get you repeat customers.  In my experience, finding non-toothy pliers at your local hardware store is very difficult, and even some craft store pliers have sported a full set of canines.  So look closely before you buy.

Also, everyone's hand shape, size, and strength is different, so you may have to work for a while to find the pliers that fit you best.  What is one person's favorite brand may be another's carpel tunnel syndrome factory.  Assuming you take (highly recommended) stretch breaks while working, your pliers should not cause your hands to cramp or become painful or swollen.  If you have problems, they are probably not the pliers for you.  And don't let price be your guide, there are some very nice expensive pliers out there, but that doesn't mean they are guaranteed to fit you.

Flat Nose Pliers

Image from www.objectsandelements.com

These are probably your most commonly used pliers type in chainmaille.  The wider, flat working surface allows for a great ability to grip the rings securely while also minimizing the chance of warping the rings.  Whether you are working with larger, thick-gauge rings or smaller rings, these pliers will quickly become your best friend.  However, the other types of pliers still have their times to shine!

Round Nose Pliers

Image from www.objectsandelements.com

These types of pliers feature a working surface that is completely round.  As such, they are not really used for the standard chainmaille activity of opening and closing jump rings.  These pliers are actually used for creating loops (such as would be used to attach beads to your chainmaille) or if you want to create a (very) small number of rings yourself.  If you are truly interested in creating your own rings, you'll probably upgrade to a power drill and a host of other tools.  But these types of pliers are handy to have around if you decide you want to up the bling-factor of your jewelry by including beads or custom-made finishing touches.

Chain Nose Pliers

Image from www.store.ornamentea.com

Chain nose pliers are slightly similar to round-nose pliers in that they have a more rounded working surface and a pointed nose.  However, they have a flat interior surface that does allow for gripping the rings while you work with them.  These pliers are not really great for closing larger rings, but they are really handy if you have a tight working space that you cannot grip the rings with a flat-nose pair of pliers in each hand.  I will often use a single chain nose pliers with a flat nose pliers (or a bent nose) in my opposing hand when working with a very tight weave.

Bent Nose Pliers

Image from www.completeheli.com

Take a chain nose pliers and bend the nose to a near-90 degree angle and you've got the traditional bent nose pliers.  These pliers, much like chain nose, have some difficulties closing rings without warping, but they have been a sanity-saver for me when working with micro-maille (very small jump rings) because the bent surface lets me grip the small rings much like a flat nose pliers without the large amount of surface area that is present in a flat nose pair.  The larger area of a flat nose, for me, often obscured the rings to the point it was difficult to tell if the ring closed completely. 

Other Useful Tool-Like Items
While pliers are probably your most useful and important tools for chainmaille, there are certainly some other things to have in your maille toolbox that can make your projects quicker, more durable, and/or less aggravating.

Jump Ring Tool

Image from www.thecrystalphoenix.com

I have never used a jump ring tool, so I cannot give a personal review of the usefulness of this tool.  However, I have heard some chainmaillers who love to have one of these handy, saying it makes working with their rings quicker and more comfortable.  This little tool is worn on your hand much like a jewelry ring and the slots are used to replace one of your pairs of pliers when opening and closing jump rings.  Myself, I like the primal feeling of dual-wielding pliers, but if you find juggling multiple pliers difficult, you may want to try this and see if you like it.

Bead Mat

Image from www.bojanglebeads.co.uk

I LOVE these mats!  They were (as the name implies) created for beaders to help keep their beads from rolling away.  But they work fantastic for chainmaille as well, keeping your rings from sliding about and making it very easy to 'scoop' closed rings onto an open ring straight off the mat.  The felt-like surface keeps your rings steady without getting fuzzy or clinging to the rings.  You can buy these at pretty much any craft store, probably in the beading aisle or near the beading tools.

Tool Magic

Image from www.faerynicethings.com

If you asked me what was probably the single most fantastic product that made my chainmaille life easier, it would be a difficult tos-up between my bead mat and Tool Magic.  This is a plastic-like paste that you dip the tips of your pliers in to coat the working surface.  After it dries, it not only makes you far less likely to scratch the surface of your rings, but also makes the rings easier to grip and makes the dreaded 'ring launch' much less likely to happen.  It can be difficult to find in some craft stores, but it is well worth the hunt.  It is also widely available from on-line jewelry supply sources.  Depending on how much you use your pliers and how 'aggressive' you work, you will have to re-dip your tools as the Tool Magic gets 'grungy', but the small jar will last for many, many dips.

Rock Tumbler

Image from www.geology.com

This piece of power equipment is useful for shining up your rings and final creations.  By placing your rings in the tumbler with either sand or a fine-grain steel shot you can polish off any rough edges and create a like-new shine.  However, be careful if tumbling colored rings or jewelry including beads or crystals, as the tumbling may scratch the color coating or break the embellishments.

Although the tools of chainmaille may seem mundane, they are an important factor in your creative process that must not be overlooked.  If you want to be sure that you enjoy chainmaille for years and years injury-free, finding tools that are useful and comfortable for your hands is essential.  Do not fear the hardware, trial and error to find your favorite brand(s) will pay off in the long run.  And trust me, you can never have too many pliers...

OOOOHHHH, Shiny! (or, fun with the various metals)

There are numerous metals (and other materials) available to work with in chainmaille, and due to budget constraints I have not had the pleasure of working with all of them.  However, information on the pros and cons of each material is widely available through chainmaille suppliers, artists, and hobbyists.  Materials can vary greatly in price, suitability, strength, and appropriateness for any given project, so it is important to understand your goals for a particular chainmaille piece when deciding on the materials you will use to construct it.  Also, material aesthetics and characteristics can vary between suppliers, bright aluminum from one supplier may have a greater (or lesser) amount of shine than the 'same' material from another provider or one suppliers alloy may be softer than another's.  It's up to you to decide which product appeals to you most.  But, to get you started, here is a quick overview of some of the more common chainmaille metals and materials...

Base Metals
Regular Aluminum - This metal alloy is not suitable for most jewelry applications, but is used in some industrial applications or for anodizing (coloring).  This metal has a habit of turning your hands, clothing, and anything else it comes in contact with black (1).  Most of the suppliers that I use for my chainmaille jewelry do not offer this metal.  Others, like The Ring Lord do offer these rings but they state that they are very 'dirty' to work with.

Bright Aluminum - This alloy of aluminum is very light and shiny, with little to no black 'rub off' as is found in regular aluminum.  It is also inexpensive, making it a great metal for budget-conscious yet beautiful jewelry creations as well as your general chainmaille needs.  This metal is easy to manipulate but this also makes it a bit lacking in the durability department when compared to some of the stiffer metals (2).  Ultimately, this is a great beginner metal for some beautiful creations if you can't afford silver.

Anodized Aluminum - In layman's terms this is 'colored aluminum'.  The colored rings are created by running an electrical current through aluminum rings and then dyeing them (3), creating a colored outer coating.  These are the least expensive of the colored metal rings generally available on the market (3).  The colors can be vibrant, but they can also vary across batches and between batches  and the color can also be scratched, flake off, or fade with wear (3, 4).  Depending on the supplier, the rings may be dyed before or after they are cut, so make sure you check as rings that are colored after they are cut have colored ends as well and (in my experience) the closures are less evident. 

Copper - Copper is a lovely reddish colored metal that is fairly easy to work with and relatively inexpensive (3).  However, it's a fairly weak (read: easily warped) metal and tends to tarnish fairly quickly.  Copper pieces require frequent cleaning with lemon juice and/or storage in fairly air-tight containers to maintain their shine.  Or, you can leave it tarnished and have a unique patina on each piece that some people find very attractive.

Enameled Copper - These rings are copper which has had a layer of color added to the surface.  The colors can be very vivid, but the process of coating the wire makes the copper even softer than it was previously (3).  This makes the rings exceptionally prone to warping if mishandled.  The rings are often cut after the color is applied, leaving exposed copper ends that require focus to align in the finished piece.  Some people also have a reaction to copper that can cause their skin to turn green if they come in contact with the metal (2).  If handled properly, however, these rings can give you access to some unique and outstanding color variations.

Brass - Also known as Jewelry Brass, this is a wonderful golden-colored metal that can give your project a beautiful shine and weight.  It does contain copper, so people that react to copper (as mentioned above) may also react to brass and the rings may develop a patina quickly (2).  Any jewelry cleaner that states it's safe for brass can be used on these rings (but other metals may react to the cleaner, so do not use brass cleaner if the piece contains other materials).  Although this is a harder metal than copper or aluminum, it is still fairly easy to work with so that beginners can benefit from its golden hues. 

Bronze - This metal appears very similar to copper in color, but is harder and tends to be more expensive (2).  It does contain copper, so people that react to copper (as mentioned above) may also react to brass and the rings may develop a patina quickly (2).  Any cleaner that is safe for brass or copper can be used to remove the tarnish if desired, but the same caveat of mixing metals applies here as with brass.  At the thicker gauges this metal may be a bit hard to work with, but it is very durable, often making it worth the effort.

Stainless Steel - The most durable of the base metals, with a nice weight and dark silvery color (2).  However, that durability comes at an (economic and spiritual) price.  This metal is can be extremely hard to work with, especially at the thicker gauges, and will probably reduce you to either tears or swearing when you first start dealing with it. Be aware that this metal contains nickel, which may cause an allergic reaction in some people (2).  But unlike bronze and copper, this metal does not tarnish or rust (5).

Rubber/Silicone O-rings - These rings can be made of a variety of materials, including silicone, neoprene, and EPDM (3).  They tend to be inexpensive and can give your chainmaille creation a nice dose of color and stretch.  The amount of stretch and the long-term durability of the rings varies by manufacturer and material, so some trial and error may be necessary to find what works best for your individual projects.  I would suggest looking for latex-free rings to avoid any potential allergy concerns. 

Precious Metals
Sterling Silver - Sterling silver is formed by the addition of copper to silver, creating a stronger metal than silver alone (3).  It is a beautiful, shiny, weighty metal, but it is also very pricey currently.  That may change if the price of silver declines, but for the foreseeable future this is a very expensive metal to work with.  People who react to copper may react to sterling silver, so it is important to keep metal sensitivity in mind even for the precious metals.
Argentium Silver - This is an alloy of silver containing 92.5% fine silver.  This metal is harder than standard sterling silver while also being tarnish resistant (6), making it a very popular low-maintenance precious metal for chainmaille jewelry.

Gold-fill - These rings are made by putting a layer of gold over another base metal, giving extra strength to the ring while providing the shine and prestige of gold.  The gold layer is thicker than gold plate, so well made rings should not have flaking issues (3).  But these rings can be very expensive, especially with the price of gold being fairly high currently.  Allergies are generally not a problem with this metal, but some people that are highly sensitive to metals may still have a reaction.  I myself react to gold-fill if I use it for earring wires.  The only metals I can successfully use on myself for earring wires are niobium and (assumably) titanium, which are discussed next.

The process of anodizing does not drastically change the characteristics of the metal in niobium or titanium like it does for copper, so for brevity the anodized and unanodized versions of these metals are combined.

Niobium/Anodized Niobium - Niobium is a dull gray in its natural state, but the application of various voltages causes a plethora of beautiful and subtle color variations (3).  This metal tends to be hypoallergenic and doesn't tarnish, as well as being one of the strongest available colored metals (3).  However, it is very expensive, making it a risky choice for a beginner who may mar a lot of costly rings while perfecting their technique.

Titanium/Anodized Titanium - Like niobium, titanium is anodized by the application of electricity.  The colors tend to be more muted than what is found in aluminum or niobium and can vary greatly from batch to batch (3) but this metal is as close to truly hypo-allergenic as you can often get.  It is also VERY expensive, so although it is fairly easy to work with a beginner should think twice before using this metal to avoid a huge cash outflow.

This article only touches on the various materials that are available for your chainmaille experience.  Rings made of glass, crystal, gemstones, wood, and other materials can be found on-line and at your local craft store.  Don't be afraid to experiment with different materials to change the look of a piece and give it an individual style that is suited to you and your customers.  For me, half of the joy I get from chainmaille is from the finished piece, the rest comes from the process of developing an idea and experimenting with the rings and materials that give it the personality that I envision.  Take the first step on your metal-experience journey, and find out what elements speak to you...


References
1.  http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=15&cat=Aluminum+Jump+Rings
2.  http://www.bluebuddhaboutique.com/b3/faq/metals/difference-between-base-metals
3.  Mojica, Rebeca.  2010.  Chained: Create Gorgeous Chain Mail Jewelry One Ring at a Time.  North Light Books, Cincinnati Ohio.
4.  http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=174&cat=Anodized+Aluminum+ Jump+Rings+12g+to+14g
5.  http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=29&cat=Machine+Cut+Stainless +Steel+Jump+Rings
6. http://www.jewelrybysueonline.com/faq/frequently-asked-questions.html

Chainmaille suppliers/references (or, Where do you find those things?)

I've had a lot of people who aren't familiar with chainmaille (and even a few who are) ask me 'Where do you even find that stuff?'  So I thought it might be helpful to put together a list of some of the more common and/or my favorite sources for patterns, materials, tools, inspiration, etc.  This is by no means an exhaustive list (I'm not quite that obsessed yet), so feel free to drop me a line if you have another source that you like that I haven't listed here.  I'm always looking for new suppliers to feed the addiction!

Rings/Scales
You can't make chainmaille without a steady supply of jump rings.  And in my experience local hobby stores just don't seem to carry the selection/quantity that most chainmaillers would need.  A paltry bag of 50 16g jumprings will not cut it for any of my projects short of maybe a zipper extension.  And I do not have the patience or desire to make my own rings (if you do, more power to you).  As such, I get most of my jumprings from on-line sources.

My favorite source for jewelry rings is by far Blue Buddha Boutique (B3).  They have a wide selection of ring sizes, both in diameters and gauge, as well as almost any metal you could wish to work in.  Their bright aluminum is so shiny that sometimes I wonder if they slipped me sterling silver instead!  They anodize their niobium in-house and have a great variety of colors available.  They are located locally (to me) in Chicago and all of their anodized aluminum is made in the USA!  They also supply me with the small anodized scales that I use for my scalemaille earrings.

Another good bulk-ring source on-line is The Ring Lord.  They sell their rings by weight, not quantity, but they give an estimate of how many rings per ounce each size/gauge gives you.  They have a nice variety of metals and sizes, and I have used their aluminum rings in many patterns.  Make sure you pay attention to the type of cutting used on the rings you buy, they offer pinch-cut and saw-cut.  Their prices are cheaper than B3, but I don't find their aluminum as shiny, so I typically use them in patterns where the rings are not as visible (such as my scalemaille dicebags) or when I am testing out a new weave that I don't plan on selling the tester item.  Ring Lord is where I get the larger aluminum scales that I use for my dicebags as well as the rubber o-rings that I used in a couple dicebags and that my friend Kathy uses for her strechy bracelets.

There are many other chainmaille ring suppliers available that I have not (yet) had a chance to use, but are worth looking into.  C & T Designs has a nice selection of square/flat jump rings in a variety of materials if you want to give your project a unique look.  Metal Designz has a nice variety of rings as well offering a bulk-buy discount.  Fire Mountain Gems is more well-known for their crystals and beads, but they have a nice selection of jumprings in a variety of sizes, materials, and colors as well.  There are also craftspeople who make jumprings for purchase on Etsy, search for jump rings or chainmail rings to see what you can find.

Patterns and Classes
There are 2 main categories of pattern sources available: books with multiple patterns and single-pattern sources.  I'm a huge fan of books myself, as I often don't know exactly what type of project I want to do next to expand my maille horizons and you can often get 20+ patterns for around $20, but the single-pattern sources are handy if you are looking for something specific or had someone ask if you could make Project X.  There are also several jewelry magazines that feature chainmaille patterns fairly regularly, including Step-by-Step Wire Jewelry, Bead Style Magazine, and Bead and Button Magazine.

For books I find it easiest to go to my local library and/or bookstore and browse their selection of jewelry-making books.  Don't limit yourself to only books with chainmaille listed on the cover, I've found many chainmaille-based patterns in books focused on beading or wire-work jewelry.  What I will often do is look through the books, making note of any (such as "Chained" by Rebeca Mojica, "Classic Chain Mail Jewelry" by Sue Ripsch, or "Link It" by Susan Thomas) that had patterns I liked or gave me ideas and I will then search for them to purchase.  This allows me to avoid buying a book that doesn't have what I am looking for and/or being disappointed with an on-line book purchase that only has a few patterns I like.

For single-pattern sources there are numerous potential suppliers.  Most on-line companies that supply rings also have patterns available for purchase.  Local crafting stores will also periodically have chainmaille artists come in and teach classes, and these teachers will often have copies of their patterns available for sale.  M.A.I.L also has a very active community that posts patterns and ideas on a fairly regular basis.  And there are a surprising amount of videos available (although the quality and/or instruction varies greatly) to be found by a search on YouTube.  Conferences such as the Bead and Button Show will also often have seminars and classes you can take to learn new patterns or perfect your technique.  Search for the various craft expos in your area to see what is available in your region (or come to Milwaukee, WI in June for the beading show to end all shows!).

Tools
The proper tools are essential to a successful chainmaille project.  The variety of tools that you collect will be based on your personal preference and how 'aggressive' you are (aka, how often you break/wear out your pliers).  Where you get your tools can be as simple as your local hardware store, purchasing at a local craft store, or from an on-line ring/chainmaille supply dealer.  The most important thing to remember is that the tools you use MUST be comfortable for you to use for an extended period of time and the pliers cannot have teeth or ridges that will scratch your rings.  I'll go into more detail on what to look for in your tools in a future post, but for now be confident that you can spend as little as $5 on a pair of pliers at the hardware store or you can spend over $30 for some very nice pliers on-line.  I have several different pairs that I tend to alternate between based on the project, and all of mine have been purchased from stores locally.


Beads/Embellishments/Finishing Touches
Your jewelry can embody the simple elegance of just jumprings or you can embellish with the riot of colors, finishes, and textures available from adding beads and charms to your creations.  How much you embellish is a matter of personal preference (and, in my case, space constraints).  And much like tools, you can find many of your desired finishing touches at local craft stores or by browsing your local craft fair.  I've seen some fantastic lampwork beads at my local flea markets and consignment shops, if you take the time to look for them.  But, as many people like to shop from the comfort of their home, here are some examples of suppliers for you to help get your glimmer on...

Rio Grand Jewelry Supplies
C-Koop Beads
Saki Silver
Fire Mountain Gems
Blue Buddha Boutique

The list of suppliers for the various 'tools of the trade' for chainmaille creations is changing on a daily basis as new suppliers join the market, new patterns are created, and your local shopping center adds a small beading boutique store.  Be sure to check you local craft fairs to find that next great supplier, and feel free to drop me a line with any suppliers you think I should check in to.  I'm always looking for more jump-rings to add to my collection...